Even in the rain, Bologna never loses its charm. The porticoes, the history-rich museums, and the many indoor activities make it the perfect city to explore both on sunny days and in gloomy weather. If you’re planning to visit Bologna for tourism, business, or family reasons and are wondering what to do in case of bad weather, this article offers ideas, places, and experiences to enjoy in Bologna and the surrounding hills when it rains.

Walking under the porticoes: in Bologna, you can stroll without an umbrella!

In Bologna, even rainy days are an opportunity to discover the city. The porticoes, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021, stretch for 62 km: 42 within the historic center and 22 outside the city walls. The most famous portico is the one leading to the Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin of San Luca (or simply San Luca, as locals call it). Built in the 17th century, it connects Porta Saragozza to the basilica, located on Colle della Guardia. It’s just a short distance from Antico Podere San Luca and one of the most beloved destinations for guests staying at our B&B or short-term rentals.

Here are four perfect itineraries to explore the city while staying dry.

1. From Piazza Maggiore to the Sanctuary of San Luca on Colle della Guardia

The portico that leads to San Luca is almost 4 km long, with 666 arches climbing up to Colle della Guardia, where the sanctuary stands. If you’re starting from Piazza Maggiore and want to walk there, keep in mind that it’s a 5 km journey, with the final stretch uphill — ideal for trekking lovers! If you’d rather reach the basilica more comfortably, you can hop on the tourist train that goes all the way to the top and enjoy the walk back down under the arches.
To walk to San Luca under the porticoes, we recommend taking Via D’Azeglio to Via de’ Carbonesi (an uncovered section, but only a few hundred meters long). There begins a small portico. Enter and continue toward Via Barberia. Along this stretch, you’ll find the shop of the renowned Majani chocolate factory, where you can buy the famous FIAT chocolates! In Roman times, this very area was home to the ancient Bononia theatre.
From Via de’ Carbonesi, take Via Collegio di Spagna — again, a short uncovered section — to reach Via Saragozza. From here, the rest of the way is almost entirely covered by porticoes. Walk all the way to Porta Saragozza, cross the ring road, and reach the elevated portico. Your climb to the sanctuary begins here. Follow the portico all the way up for stunning panoramic views over the city and hills.

Some interesting facts along the way:

• On Via Saragozza just outside the city center, you’ll spot the splendid Villa Benni on the left — once the German command center during WWII, complete with an underground bomb shelter — and on the opposite side, under the portico, the “Madonna Grassa” statue dating back to the 1700s.
• Further along, you’ll find Villa Spada and Villa delle Rose, two beloved parks among locals. Right after them stands the Arco del Meloncello, a historic arch that links the porticoes to the start of the actual ascent. To your right is the Renato Dall’Ara Stadium, home to Bologna F.C.

2. Via Zamboni and the University District

Via Zamboni is the heart of Bologna’s cultural and student life. The tour of the university area begins at the iconic Two Towers. Start at the Garisenda and head toward Piazza Verdi. Just a few steps down on the right, you’ll find the Virtual Reality Museum – La Macchina del Tempo, where you can experience a 3D reconstruction of ancient Bologna. A bit further ahead stands the Basilica of San Giacomo Maggiore and the Conservatory building.
Continue under the portico, and you’ll reach Piazza Verdi, home to the Teatro Comunale, a venue for concerts and opera, and further on, the Palazzo Poggi Museum, which houses scientific and historical collections tied to the university, including the historic Anatomy Theatre.
Via Zamboni is lined with cafés, bookstores, copy shops, and university faculties. If you follow it to the end, you’ll reach Via delle Belle Arti and the National Art Gallery.

Interesting facts:

• In Piazza Verdi, you can spot a remaining stretch of the medieval Mura del Mille, the city’s 11th-century defensive walls.
• Behind the Teatro Comunale lies the Giardino del Guasto, a garden built atop the ruins of the once-opulent Bentivoglio Palace, destroyed in 1507.

3. The Old Jewish Ghetto: artisan shops and charming alleyways

Instead of heading down Via Zamboni, you can take the nearby Via de’ Giudei and explore Bologna’s old Jewish Ghetto — a labyrinth of quiet alleyways rich in history and atmosphere. It’s a secluded and evocative part of the city, with narrow, peaceful streets that whisper stories of the past.
Here, you can visit the Jewish Museum of Bologna and continue on to Via Oberdan, a lively street full of shops and cafés. Since this area has fewer porticoes, don’t forget your umbrella!

4. Via dell’Indipendenza: shopping and historic views

Perfect for those who want to combine a sheltered walk with some shopping, Via dell’Indipendenza connects Bologna Centrale Station to Piazza Maggiore with a long, arcaded street lined with shops.
The walk is almost entirely covered and is intersected by numerous side streets and alleys. From here, you can take a short detour to Via Piella and its famous “Finestrella” — a small window offering a view of one of Bologna’s hidden canals.

One more tip

Along with your umbrella, bring a printed or digital map of the porticoes (you can download one from Bologna Welcome) and let yourself be guided. In Bologna, each portico has its own story and architectural style.

Museums, exhibitions and libraries

Bologna is full of museums—perfect for rainy days. Here are a few:
• MAMbo – Museum of Modern Art of Bologna, housed in a former bread oven, where you can admire contemporary exhibitions and permanent collections
• Civic Archaeological Museum, home to Egyptian and Roman collections
• Civic Medieval Museum
• Museum of Music
• Ducati Museum, ideal for motorcycle lovers who want to enrich their itinerary with iconic sites of the Motor Valley
• Museum of Industrial Heritage, to discover Bologna’s industrial history
• Cineteca di Bologna, with a rich archive dedicated to cinema and audiovisual culture
• Palazzo Albergati and Palazzo Fava, which often host temporary exhibitions

A perfect indoor place to visit is Salaborsa Library, right in the heart of Piazza Maggiore. Its glass floor reveals medieval and Roman archaeological remains, and the atmosphere is ideal for quiet reading while sheltered from the rain—or for enjoying a coffee at the library café.

Other recommended stops? Definitely the Archiginnasio Library, under the Pavaglione portico!
A true symbol of the city.

Literary cafés and bookstores

The alleys of Bologna hide gems for culture lovers: the literary cafés. These are special spaces where culture, books, art, and food come together in a welcoming atmosphere. Among the most appreciated:
• Dandy Caffè Letterario, located in the heart of the historic centre on Via della Grada 4/E. It’s a little gem, popular with students and creatives, where you can read in peace or listen to background music.
• Sebastiano Caridi’s pastry shop, inside Palazzo Fava. Here you can enjoy pastries surrounded by art and Renaissance frescoes. A perfect mix of aesthetics, flavour, and culture.

And then there are the bookstores! Bologna has many: the historic Libreria Nanni under the arcades, Libreria Coop Ambasciatori, and Feltrinelli in Piazza Ravegnana—lively spots to take shelter and wait for the rain to stop.

Enjoy Bolognese cuisine or try your hand as a pasta maker

Rain is the perfect excuse to take shelter in a trattoria. Restaurants, osterias, gourmet shops… Where to eat in Bologna? You’ll find an incredible variety everywhere!

For guests staying at Antico Podere San Luca who want to enjoy dinner near the city center before heading back, we recommend Osteria Il Cannone, on Via Andrea Costa: a landmark for those seeking traditional dishes in an authentic setting.
And if you want to do more than just taste Bolognese cuisine—if you’d like to learn how to make it yourself—there are cooking classes in the city designed for visitors too: learn to prepare tagliatelle, tortellini, and lasagna the traditional way.

Shopping under the porticoes and in boutique galleries

We’ve already mentioned the portico of Via Indipendenza, but that’s not the only shopping destination in town. In Bologna, you can stroll sheltered from the rain even in Galleria Cavour, right next to Piazza Maggiore, where you’ll find luxury boutiques and major fashion brands. Between Piazza Santo Stefano and Strada Maggiore, you can visit the atmospheric Corte Isolani.

Churches, monuments, and historic buildings

When it rains, Bologna doesn’t lose its charm. On the contrary, bad weather becomes the perfect opportunity to explore the city’s indoor architectural and artistic treasures.
Don’t miss its stunning churches, such as the Basilica of San Petronio, which dominates Piazza Maggiore with its imposing unfinished façade and houses wonders like the longest sundial in the world. Not far away, the Sanctuary of Santo Stefano—also known as the “Seven Churches”—welcomes you with a labyrinth of mystical, evocative spaces where history and spirituality intertwine. Also worth visiting is the Basilica of San Domenico, which preserves precious early sculptures by Michelangelo.
The city’s historic palaces also offer shelter wrapped in beauty: Archiginnasio, the university’s original seat; Palazzo Re Enzo, in the heart of the city; and Palazzo Pepoli, home to the Museum of the History of Bologna. These are places where the rain doesn’t disturb, but rather accompanies you on a journey through time.
And at the end of the day?
You return to a warm and peaceful place.
Why not? That place could be Antico Podere San Luca.

Coming back to a warm and special place: Antico Podere San Luca

After a day spent walking under the porticoes, visiting museums, and enjoying the rain, there’s nothing better than returning to a cozy place. Antico Podere San Luca is located on Via di Monte Albano, in the Bolognese hills, just a few minutes by car or motorbike from the historic center. You can choose to stay in a B&B room or in one of our self-catering apartments. Private parking is free of charge. The view is stunning, and you’ll be surrounded by silence and nature — the perfect setting to recharge after a rainy day.
Whether you’re in Bologna for work, family reasons, or a quiet holiday, we’ll be happy to welcome you to Antico Podere San Luca. It’s the ideal base for discovering Bologna and its surroundings… even in the rain!
Would you like to know more or book your stay?
Feel free to get in touch.