Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca: history, legends and green trails
For the people of Bologna, the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca is a symbol of protection and belonging. From the top of Colle della Guardia, connected to the city center by the historic portico – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – the basilica has watched over Bologna for centuries.
Staying at Antico Podere San Luca, in one of the B&B rooms or self-catering apartments, means experiencing this magic from a privileged perspective: our property is just a 5-minute walk from the sanctuary. You can reach it with a short and charming walk through the hills and enjoy the stunning panorama over the city, in every season.
A thousand-year history: between sacred tradition and legend
Everything begins on Colle della Guardia, so named because since ancient times it was a strategic lookout point over the road to Tuscany.
The legend of Euthymius
It is said that around the year 1100, a Greek hermit named Euthymius (or Theocles, according to other versions) arrived from Constantinople carrying an icon of the Virgin painted on cedar wood. Legend has it that the Evangelist Luke himself painted it and that an inscription on the artwork indicated Colle della Guardia as its final resting place.
Azzolina and Bice
In 1149, the hermitage at the top of the hill was entrusted to two sisters, Azzolina and Bice, who chose a life of prayer. They were later joined by other companions, forming a small female religious community.
Angelica Bonfantini
She laid the foundations for the future Church of San Luca. In 1193, the noblewoman obtained permission from Pope Celestine III to build a church. On May 25, 1194, Bishop Gerardo Gisla laid the first stone of the oratory.
1433: The Year of the Miracle of the Rain
For two centuries, San Luca remained a local place of worship. But in 1433, Bologna was struck by relentless rain that threatened to destroy crops and cause famine. The citizens decided to invoke the Madonna’s help: they carried the icon in procession from the hill down to the city center. As soon as the painting passed through the city gates, the rain stopped and the sun came out. From that moment on, the Bolognese devotion to the Madonna di San Luca was sealed. The annual procession tradition was born (still held every May), and the Sanctuary became one of the city’s most important places of worship.
The architecture of the Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin of San Luca: a record-breaking masterpiece (17th–18th century)
The Portico of San Luca (1674–1739) was built to protect both the icon and the pilgrims from bad weather during the procession. It is an extraordinary work, entirely funded by citizens, nobles and guilds (which is why many coats of arms appear in the lunettes).
With its 3,796 meters and 666 arches, it is the longest portico in the world. A curiosity: the number 666 is not accidental. According to tradition, the portico represents a serpent (symbol of the devil) that is “crushed” by the Madonna’s hand once the Sanctuary at the top of the hill is reached.
The current basilica was built between 1723 and 1757, based on a design by Carlo Francesco Dotti, who conceived an elliptical layout with a majestic dome visible from every corner of the city and the plain.
The panoramic terrace, on the other hand, is very recent and allows visitors to climb 42 meters above the hill to enjoy an incredible view.
The icon: the “Black Madonna”
The icon preserved on the high altar of the Basilica of San Luca (erected in 1815) is an image of the Odigitria type (“She who shows the way”). Despite the legend, artistic analysis suggests it is a Byzantine-style work from the 12th–13th century.
The Madonna’s gaze is designed to give the impression of “following” the faithful as they climb the steps toward the altar. Her face appears dark: some say it is due to a reaction of the pigments used, while others see a link to pre-Christian religions that depicted ancient goddesses with dark faces. Whatever the reason, the Madonna di San Luca has a unique charm, and her mystery still attracts many pilgrims from all over Italy.
Curiosities: the longest portico in the world, the cable car and the vow
The portico connecting Porta Saragozza to the Sanctuary is the longest in the world: 3,796 meters of beauty marked by 666 arches.
Another curiosity concerns the old cable car: built in 1931 to make the ascent less tiring, it was popular for many years before being dismantled due to war damage and maintenance costs. Today, the memory of that era lives on in local historic names, such as the famous “Cremeria Funivia.”
“If everything goes well, I’ll walk up to San Luca!” we Bolognese say.
To live the experience like a true local, walk under the portico starting from the Arco del Meloncello. It is said that those who complete the climb on foot – challenging in some stretches – may see a wish fulfilled (a “fioretto,” or vow).
Trekking and trails: San Luca for nature lovers
The Sanctuary is not only a pilgrimage destination but also the starting (and ending) point for some of the most beautiful hiking routes in the region. Perfect for trekking enthusiasts!
- The Sentiero dei Bregoli
One of the most beloved routes among locals. About 1.7 km long, it connects Parco della Chiusa (Talon) in Casalecchio di Reno directly to Colle della Guardia. A fascinating and demanding path due to its slopes, ideal for those seeking a woodland challenge. Note: due to recent floods, always check trail accessibility or opt for the “Via Panoramica” variant, which passes through Montagnola di Mezzo and leads to Via Monte Albano, just a few steps from Antico Podere San Luca.
- The Via degli Dei
San Luca represents one of the key stops on the first day of the Via degli Dei, the famous route connecting Bologna to Florence. Antico Podere San Luca is the ideal strategic base to rest before or after tackling the climb from the city center: you can stay in our B&B rooms even for just one night. - Panoramic walks from Antico Podere San Luca
Being only 5 minutes on foot from the Sanctuary, our guests can enjoy a morning walk to the panoramic terrace of San Luca. From a height of 42 meters above the hill, you can admire the city, from Bologna’s red rooftops to the plain and Casalecchio di Reno. Useful information: the Sanctuary is open daily (7:00 am–6:30 pm in winter, until 7:00 pm in summer). For more details on prices and bookings, we recommend consulting the official Sanctuary website.
Where to eat near San Luca: our insider tips
After admiring the panorama or walking along the hill trails, there’s nothing better than tasting traditional Bolognese cuisine. Here are our favorite places, all very close to the Sanctuary and Antico Podere San Luca:
- Da Vito a San Luca
Located just a few steps from the Sanctuary’s forecourt. A true institution for those seeking authentic Bolognese flavors and a splendid view of the basilica. - Osteria del Nonno (Via di Casaglia)
If you’re looking for the true atmosphere of the Bolognese hills, this is the right place. Specializing in crescentine and tigelle served with cured meats and cheeses, it’s a rustic and convivial spot much loved by locals (especially in summer thanks to outdoor tables). - Cremeria Funivia
If you’re craving something refreshing before heading back, a stop at Cremeria Funivia – near the base of the climb to Colle della Guardia from Via Porrettana – is a must. The “San Luca” flavor is a tribute to the sanctuary and truly spectacular!
Antico Podere San Luca, just steps from the Basilica on Colle della Guardia
While Dotti was completing the basilica façade in the 18th century, the walls of our Podere (dating back to the 1500s and 1800s) were already sheltering the farmers who worked these lands.
Here, in the garden where our B&B guests enjoy breakfast, under the shade of the trees surrounding the ancient building, there once stood – and still stands – the small oratory of Santa Maria della Neve alla Maestà, whose façade bears a cross dating back to 1277.
Staying with us means living a piece of history that has seen centuries of pilgrims and travelers heading toward the hilltop and Florence along the ancient roads still walkable today.
Dreaming of waking up with a view of the Sanctuary?
Antico Podere San Luca awaits you for a stay immersed in nature and the quiet of the hills, with history just within reach. You can choose between B&B rooms and self-catering apartments. Parking is spacious and free for our guests. Leave your car or motorbike with us and stroll through the enchanting nature of Colle della Guardia and its surroundings.